3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

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3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Wed Jun 12, 2019 8:26 am

Welcome to the thread for the 3D Printing Doctor Who Project!

Troy Ryan Wood, aka 'bluehinter' on here formerly... Since my old thread got wiped with the server reset, I guess I'll use this opportunity to restructure things in a slightly more organized manner, and include a FAQ section for those who are new to the 3D printing process. Otherwise, watch this thread for semi-regularly updates and work-in-progress photos of how my latest build projects are going.

I started this project specifically for Doctor Who fans with access to 3D printers, who are looking to plug the gaps in the official 5.5" scale toy line with *FREE* articulated models that you can print at home, paint and assemble, and then proudly display on your shelf alongside the rest of your figures!

Here's a short video introducing the project: https://youtu.be/1RgA8s-hfuQ

Quick Links:
List of Available Templates
To-Do List (and 'Nope' List)
3D Printing FAQ
Finished Figure Gallery


The Rules:

1) I will only make templates available as long as licensed versions of the figures do not exist. (If Character Options announces their next figure will be a Quark or Alpha Centauri, that template will immediately be pulled from the line-up.) While it seems increasingly unlikely that we will ever get official versions of these figures, anything that CO does choose to release will undoubtedly be of higher quality than what I can create myself, and I do not want to jeopardize their profitability or the release of future figures by producing "cheap knock-offs."

If I take down a template, it should go without saying that I do not want anybody else passing around copies they might have downloaded before I made it disappear.

2) I will stop sharing templates entirely, including all future releases, if I catch anyone attempting to profit by selling these figures or designs on eBay, Etsy, at conventions, or reposting the designs for sale on 3D print-to-order sites like Shapeways, etc.
(and I *am* watching. Do not take this warning lightly.) This is strictly a not-for-profit fan project. As long as we all agree to play nice, I plan on releasing new figures on a regular basis for at least the next five to seven years!

3) For a number of reasons, this project is restricted to monsters from the classic 1963-1996 era of Doctor Who only. Mainly, this is because I want to stay on the good side of the BBC (and their lawyers), but also because most modern era monsters were produced with HD television in mind and have significantly more complex costumes than their clunky 60's, 70's, and 80's counterparts, which makes them too difficult for me to reproduce given my limited technical skill.


All templates are 100% *FREE* to download, and can be access from the Templates page on https://www.3dprintingdoctorwho.com/ or my TinkerCAD development page.

We also have a new Guest Templates page for designs created by other artists, which is not limited to just 5.5" scale figures, and also includes customizing pieces, full-scale props, costume pieces, and other fun stuff!
If you've created a professional quality 3D model you want to share, feel free to contact me on here or via the 3DPrintingDoctorWho facebook group, and I'll be happy to add it to the site.

Please note that new templates often require several rounds of prototyping and test printing until I am satisfied that optimal quality has been reached, so always consult the Templates page first to see which designs I consider "finished" and which still "require tinkering" before printing yourself, and especially before using a service like 3DHubs.com to have someone custom print them for you.

One last thing, and I cannot repeat this strongly enough... UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will I custom print figures for you. This is a hobby and extension of my fandom, NOT a business.
DO NOT ask if figures are for sale, if I take custom orders, if I am willing to do custom design work for you, if I *know* people who can print figures for you, or if I can provide estimates for how much it would cost to have one of these designs commercially printed.
The answer is an emphatic 'NO!' on all counts. Otherwise, I am happy to answer questions about my figures, design process, or 3D printing in general.

And now, on to the templates...
Last edited by 3DPrintingDoctorWho on Sat Jun 15, 2019 9:42 am, edited 17 times in total.

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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Wed Jun 12, 2019 8:26 am

Figure releases:
The list below is mostly just to show off what's available. Please visit the Templates page of my website: https://www.3dprintingdoctorwho.com/templates.html for far more detailed print, paint, and assembly instructions, as well as links to where you can purchase the LEDs, motors, and other optional parts I have built into many of the designs as extra features.


Note that some figures are designed to be printed in regular filament (PLA), and some are set up for regular solid resin (solid SLA), or a mixture of solid and flexible resin (flex SLA.) Since I didn't get a resin printer of my own until after completing the 26th figure, I am in the process of going back through the list of old templates and updating them so that they can be printed in either format. As always, there are more details on the website.

Additionally, many more figures are available on the Guest Templates part of the website that aren't listed below.

001 - Alpha Centauri

Version 3 - Updated 3/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=17r-VE ... 40JX-92Moj
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bFpODXgFZUQ

Notes: I've completely redesigned ol' Alpha Centauri from the ground up. Everything should be a lot cleaner and more professional looking now, and the newly redesigned arms pass all the way through the body so that you can move them like a finger puppet (or possibly attach thick wire to them and make it more of an actual puppet). I have no idea if the head veins will actually print on a regular resolution printer, but they're definitely showing up on my 20 micron machine.

002 - Quark
Version 4 - Updated 3/4/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MPBqx ... oknPlGgEDr
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0W8uZQmdI0z

Notes: The "eye tubes" come out like sticks even on my 20 micron printer. Eventually I may go back and tweak the design a bit to try to find a middle ground between authenticity and printability.

This design contains two extra accessories; a hexagonal background wall with two removable pieces of rubble, and the Quark's atomic drill. I printed my drill out of a color changing thermoplastic so that the unpainted sections "light up" white when held in your hand!


003 - Chumbley

Version 6 - Updated 4/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GNgPm ... 9umSWXezHg
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/a3teaCTSpaV

Notes: This figure has also been recently redesigned from the ground up. I've actually gone back to a variation of the first design incorporating two 40mm x 5mm springs (available from most hardware stores) that will allow the Chumbley to chumble around in the raised position unless you press down on the head to make the three main body segments retract.


004 - SIDRAT

Version 2 - Updated 5/22/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jZ4Bh ... gf0WGcV9Sz
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cKLc7hAWYbb

Notes: This figure has been redesigned for improved door mobility and to add insets to the inside of the front panel where earth magnets can be mounted to simulate the "fridge magnet" style control layout. This is a VERY large figure that requires a build area that is at least 7" x 7". Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.


005 - Larvae Gun
Version 2 - Updated 10/18/2017

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1n_JRz ... qLd3TBn-fS
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/djTwJ8cxqJD

Notes: .A very simple 2-piece figure with no articulation. Just print the two halves and then glue together with E-6000 or another heavy duty craft glue.


006 - Dalek Time Machine
Version 2 - Updated 3/7/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1c_PtZ ... pifIybaej2
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8V1aquWX0Qa

Notes: This is a VERY large figure that will just barely fit on my 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area if I disable both Raft and Brim in CURA. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

007 - Zarbi
Version 2 - Updated 11/13/2017

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=164oUL ... OhGn6noNXX
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jwJ418s1CDz

Notes: This Beta version is fully printable, but I eventually plan on going back to clean up the leg joints, add some detail to the eyes, and change the pivot type on the neck to a ball joint for more natural movement.


008 - Dalek Hoverbout
Version 2 - Updated 4/1/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1po6r1 ... Uczoc3hGuF
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/l7efTyIDDLO

Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

009 - Servo Robot
Version 4 - Updated 5/7/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WtmAq ... 3UBQ5YjIUo
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9NU7HLmzfbA

Notes: You will need to print *TWO* copies of the arm and leg STL file in order to have enough limbs for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer. Special thanks to Hastran on TurboSquid, who allowed me to use his original 3D sculpt as the basis for my figure.

010 - Exxilon Root
Version 4 - Updated 9/15/2019

Final: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1USMsY ... TBZW-ZD7dy
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3AreE7zUktp

Notes: This figure is sort of printable using regular filament, but because it's all curved surfaces, it's far better suited to SLA resin.
For the best possible print, use a 50/50% combination of regular black or grey resin and Siraya Tech "Tenacious" flexible resin. See the website for more detailed printing instructions


011 - Dalek Transmat
Version 4 - Updated 7/22/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Qvt_M ... EkQTaXzZBV
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3eu49Ft3IhM

Notes: The zip file contains three sub-folders depending on whether you plan on printing a solid version (which must be painted) a modular version which uses flashing LED string light that are operated by a button, or a non-flashing version that uses a different type of LED string lights which can be operated by a switch on the base. You will need to print *ONE* copy of the Transmat platform in the root folder (I have included an alternate with a brim added, since mine was curling a bit), and *TWO COPIES* of everything in the Solid or Light-Up sub folders, depending on which version you want to make. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer.


012 - Keller Machine
Version 2 - Updated 12/10/2017

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CCvH7 ... FiAPrrCylU
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8HGSQ86S32x

Notes: Comes in two flavors. A standard solid version and a light-up version compatible with UniBlock LED bricks. Rather surprisingly, I was able to print this on a standard 1mm resolution machine and the handles still came out, but your mileage may vary depending on your temperature settings. If you're having considerable trouble getting them to print, you may want to consider snipping them off with a pair of wire cutters, drilling two small holes for the bases, and then just inserting two bent pieces of filament of the appropriate lengths.

013 - War Machine
Version 4 - Updated 1/18/2019

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EXLSn ... eig8UEcpDx
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7DKtNlmtNN3

Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

This figure works perfectly fine for standard non-motorized use, but I've been having trouble getting the underpowered Go-Brix motors to work as intended. This latest Beta version strips the weight of the body down to an absolute minimum, but I haven't had time to reprint yet to see if it's drivable or if the new cam system for the arms has enough torque to make the arms whomp up and down.


014 - Rutan Scout
Version 2 - Updated 1/6/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=12zjdd ... MLzlNiWdwY
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1Svv8lYuB9L

Notes: Designed to be printed out of transparent green PLA or PETG, and fitted with a green UniBlock LED brick. The figure can still be printed without the LED brick but it will have a 2x3 Lego-sized hole in the base.

015 - Hand of Omega
Version 5 - Updated 1/20/2018

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OIhAJ ... wfRIl1DTLu
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/e0GErL0KF0D

Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

In it's current Beta state, it's designed to work with three white UniBlock LED light bricks, however, I will be redesigning the figure in the future to work with LED string lights so that the lights can be easily turned on and off with a switch, rather than having to use a "key" to turn on and off three separate bricks. Since the interior is hollow, you can easily forego the LED bricks and their support layer entirely, and just drop a set of LED string lights in underneath the removable fog layer, whenever you want to turn it on.


016 - 12th Doctor’s Guitar
Version 1 - Updated 12/24/2017

Finished guitar: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xDwG7 ... P0jDyP0MXV
Beta glasses:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rtWaJ ... XfWqciWwBS
Rough (both): https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9my9WPJJ3w4

Notes: I broke my unwritten rule of "no modern Who" to create this special tribute to Peter Capaldi shortly before the airing of his final episode on 12/25/2017.


017 - Ogri
Version 1 - Updated 1/1/2018

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VrwYV ... _eDeXgmouQ
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2oEu10nvT14

Notes: The zip file contains two sub-folders depending on whether you plan on printing a solid version or a light up version compatible with UniBlock LED bricks. The light up version can still be used without the LED lights, but it will have a hole in the back where the light control dial goes. This is a Beta design because I eventually plan on creating a version that's compatible with the LED string lights.


018 - Yeti Mk. I
Version 4 - Updated 1/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E1DKT ... Kf-6lskWSQ
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7gLwM1ObPZ5

Notes: Possibly my finest figure to date, this design is based off the original Yeti costumes used during The Abominable Snowmen. The Mk. II seen in Web of Fear differed significantly, despite the episodes being filmed only a few months apart. The Mk. I Yeti looks much more like a living organic creature, and lack the weird "Moth" flashlight eyes, square mouths, and bare chests of the Mk. II's. They also have four fingers on each hand instead of three, and most unexpected of all, had somewhat creepy looking cats eyes that don't appear to have been visible at all in the filmed version. (Though since we're lacking 5 of the 6 episodes, it's hard to know for sure.)

My figure also comes with optional accessories including the pyramid of control spheres from the cave featured in episode 2.

019 - Taran Wood Beast
Version 5 - Updated 4/19/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cvPKF ... XFYQeYPV8z
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dGE4qKXsw7Z

Notes: This was supposed to be a stupid April Fools joke, where I released an action figure no one wanted based on one of the most derided monster in Doctor Who history. Little did I know that this "quick and dirty" joke figure was going to take nearly a full month and countless prototypes to get anywhere near a printable state.

The figure also comes with a tiny Key To Time, which can be printed out of transparent resin or PETG if you so choose.


020 - 20th Anniversary TARDIS Console

Version 5 - Updated 3/3/2019

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=16gSV4 ... URetYRuVPs
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0OB3wLWhzgt

Notes: Special thanks to Peacock Pete on Thingiverse, who's console formed the basic skeleton of my design.

I held off making a TARDIS console for a full year, because I knew it would have to be spectacular, and I wanted to be at the top of my game when I created it. The design you see before you is as screen accurate as physically possible, even down to placement and colorization of the individual buttons. This is a VERY large figure that will just barely fit on my 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area if I disable both Raft and Brim in CURA. I have included manual brims as part of the design to try to prevent curling on the outer corners, which is especially problematic for this piece in particular. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print. As of Version 5, this design also has support for a single 20 LED Fairy String Light that can be used to light the various console displays. (Note: some of the photos below show the earlier 4 version which used two multi-colored LED string lights. This is actually less screen accurate than just using white ones, and takes up more room, so I changed it)

I'm still listing this one as a beta design since I haven't had a chance to reprint the latest Version 5 changes, which incorporates a new column design, a split console base, and a fun removable access panel with fake circuit boards. I'm not anticipating amy problems, but I never do until I encounter them.


021 - Wirrn
Version 3 - Updated 9/1/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FNcCp ... DH05LK8F2m
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iAayJB1Fb6G

Notes: Special thanks to Hastran on TurboSquid, who allowed me to use his original 3D sculpt as the basis for my figure.


022 - Kroton
Version 2 - Updated 11/3/2018

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ty5-y ... 1ig_uPG4j-
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/judigc4PsVy

Notes: This beta version contains a few untested modifications. Print at your own risk.


Notes: This was previously the Newbery TARDIS, but Character Options released their own version in 2019 as part of their 4th Doctor Shada set.
As always, I will only release models as long as there are no officially licensed toys of the same design.

024 - The Master's TARDIS (from Claws of Axos)
Version 1 - Updated 5/6/2019

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SQOen ... aAMHgZiw8O
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/h6WlXi23Fxw

Notes: Stuart Galloway designed a similar TARDIS over on Thingiverse that I was going to link to directly on our new Guest Templates page, but then I noticed the corners weren't as smooth as they could be, the height was a bit off, the door proportions not quite right, etc. so perfectionist that I am, I ended up building a brand new version from scratch to more closely resemble the original prop.

While I'm listing this as a Beta, the design is so simple there shouldn't be anything that can really go wrong with it. The box is unusually high, so it had to be split in two, but this allowed me to create a pivoting door similar to the one on the Dalek Time Machine, even though we never actually see The Master enter it on screen. (You can see that it wasn't even a full prop as the yellow backdrop is clearly visible through the crack in the door)


025 - 8th Doctor TV Movie TARDIS Console Room Playset

Version 1 - Updated 5/27/2019

Beta: Coming Soon!
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/e2jYolWHx3p

Notes: I will be posting Beta versions of the files once I'm finished printing myself and am sure all pieces fit together as intended. Special thanks to Smappy and Jeffrey Fink, whose designs I mashed thegether and then built over the top of to form my own version. Also thanks to Brian Uiga, who restored the original 1996 prop, and sent me an astonishing mumber of up-close photos, that were invaluable for creating an accurate miniature version of this masterpiece.


026 - The Toymaker's Robot

Version 1 - Updated 5/6/2019

Beta: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JImGOm ... 5qicG4O7n/
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6Y58MEbNGBc

Notes: I just finished the design for the Toymaker Robot. I haven't test printed it yet, and won't be able to until I get my larger resin printer or HD machine up and running, whichever comes first. I'm posting a Beta now, since I think there's relatively little that can go wrong with it, aside from arm/leg joints that may need to be sanded down.


027 - ???

This will be the last new figure that I work on for a short while, as I focus my attention on revamping the first 10 or so figures I created roughly 3 years ago to up their overall quality and make them more resin printer friendly.
Last edited by 3DPrintingDoctorWho on Mon Sep 16, 2019 9:05 am, edited 11 times in total.

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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Wed Jun 12, 2019 8:27 am

To Do List:

I plan to keep on releasing figures until I run out of subjects that are within my capacity to sculpt. I work at my own speed and on the figures I want to work on. I will occasionally allow the project's Facebook Group to vote on which figure I tackle next (out of a list of pre-approved options), but only when the fancy strikes me. Please do not contact me to request that I work on a particlar design or ask when your favorite monster will become available. I will try to get to everything on this list eventually (if my fellow designers don't beat me to it), but it's a slow process, and I plan to be at this for several years.

You will note that there are no figures with human faces on my to-do list. There's a very good reason for that.

I am not skilled enough at 3D sculpting to construct a human face from scratch. And even if I did stumble across a free-to-use pre-made model with a high enough polygon count that bore a striking resemblance to an actor from Doctor Who, or a "build a face" 3D modeling software that could create one for me, You just can't squeeze enough detail out of standard filament to make a convincing face, even when printing at 20 microns like my HD printer. When that face then has to be painted flesh tone and have extra fine details added to it, it looks even worse, as you can see from my hideous bug-eyed example above.

True, there are $1300 resin printers out there that can print in amazing detail, and for the price of a small car, you can even get a 3D printer that will print in color, but I (and the majority of other home hobbyists can't afford these sort of toys) and the entire purpose of this project is to create figures that can be shared and enjoyed by Doctor Who fans of all ages and income brackets.

So as much as I'd like to build a Dominator, Movellan, or Drahvin, I just can't.
Not for the forseeable future.

My "no human faces" rule also applies to half masks and prosthetics. This includes Ogrons, Draconians, Primoids, Vogans, Tharils, or any other creature where you can see the actors eyes, nose, or mouth, or equally detailed prosthetics like the Haemovores or The Destroyer.


That said, there are still plenty of figures that I can pull off using a standard resolution printer. And who knows.... maybe by the time I reach figure #50, the price and technology of these fancier space-age machines will have come down to the point that I can afford one myself and start printing figures I once thought impossible.

The following figures are ones that I am 100% certain *will* be made. Just give me time:

20th Anniversary TARDIS Console Room.
Once I get the console printed the way I want, I'll start building the rest of the console room as a series of slot-together panels, with working doors, scanner screen, interior door, and a little bit of corridor.

Classic TARDIS Console & Console Room. This will happen. I have an excellent model from Hastran, it just needs to be cleaned up and pimped out with lights and movement like the 20th Anniversary. (Although it'll be more work because every panel is different). Once the console is done, I'll work on the rest of the console room as well, including props like the Astral Map, Food Machine, and possibly the Time-Space Visualizer.

Wood-paneled Secondary Console Room. Same as above. Got a model already, primarily a case of cleaning it up for 3D printing and adding bells and whistles.

WOTAN from The War Machines. More or less a big solid box covered in lights and and a few tape reels similar to The Master's TARDIS from the Time Monster set. I figure I'll tackle this one once I finish off the War Machine, so they can be part of the same set. I plan on using the micro LED lights on this one, just like the 20th Anniversary TARDIS.

Yeti Mk. II from The Web of Fear. While it seems simple, since I already have the Mk. I in the bag, this is actually going to be a pain in the ass, because the face, chest, and hands sculpts are all completely different.

Krarg from Shada. More or less just a yeti body covered in flat plates. I will probably make this one out of black TGlase, so that it can be fitted with a red LED so it can glow to simulate the energized Krarg saturated by K9's laser blast.

Spirodon from Planet of the Daleks.
This one is a cheat. Using the same fur texture as the Yeti, it's just an empty purple cloak that you can pop a dead Spirodon face into.

Cleaner Robot from Paradise Towers.
Difficult enough that it'll take some time, but nothing I can't handle. Depending on the overall size, I may look into making this one GoBrix compatible for RC movement.

IMC Mining Robot from Colony in Space. I'll see how the War Machine and Cleaner Robot movement works out first. Should be very similar, though on a smaller scale.

Emperor Dalek from Evil of the Daleks.
Massive, so I'd have to build it modular in several chunks, but geometrically not that complicated. I've got a couple of spare ISD1820 record/playback chips that I bought for another project, so who knows, this one may even end up with voice action! DO NOT FIGHT IN HERE!

TYPE 40 Travel Capsule (without chameleon circuit). Another one that should be easy. Pretty much two concentric cylinders.

These figures are more complicated designs that I'm fairly confident I can pull off, but that will either require significant effort on my part, are lower tier monsters nobody particularly cares about, and/or require base models or textures I don't have yet. I may not necessarily get to all of these, but I will try:

Voord from The Keys of Marinus.
I have some rudimentary humanoid bodies that can be adapted now that I know how to do joint articulation. I'm still hoping to eventually find a model of a figure in a wet suit, since that would be perfect. The head will be a little bit difficult, but not impossible, assuming I can get the very narrow forehead prong to print.

Cybermat (larger improved version) from The Wheel in Space.
The tiny version that came with the Tomb Cyberman was okay, but I've always has a fondness for the slightly larger version used in The Wheel in Space. I've tried to recreate one before, but the head is tricky. This is one situation where I wish I had better 3D scanning software because I've got a lovely big one that came with my Product Enterprise Cyberman that just needs to be scaled down by about 50%.

Morpho from The Keys of Marinus.
A brain in a jar with eye stalks. I'll probably do this one if I do the Voord so they can be part of a set.

Nucleus of the Swarm from The Invisible Enemy.
I would make this figure in a heartbeat if it wasn't for all the hairy spindly bits. There might be ways to pull it off, but it'll take some work. Like the Wirrn and Alpha Centauri, this one will also be a finger puppet.

Ice Lord from The Seeds of Death. This one has a lot of texturing on the body and armor. It would be difficult, but I've always wanted one, so that may make it happen.

Bellal/Exxilon Native from Death to the Daleks
. My experiments with trying to reproduce human faces to create a Dominator resulted in something that tragically looked about as good as Bellal's face. Slapping on some "sunglass" eyes and giving him a slightly more "piggy" nose should give me something approximating an Exxilon Native appearance. Smooth out the face a bit, print it dark red, and slap on a burlap cloak, and I've almost got two figures for the price of one.

Monoid from The Ark
. Just barely on the edge of my "No Human Faces" rule, since it's mainly a mop top in a collar with an egg in it's mouth. The hardest part is going to be finding a free face sculpt with an open mouth that I can shove the eye into.

White Robot from The Mind Robber. I used to think this one was too complex, but I think it's just about the maximum amount of detail and articulation I can get out of a figure. The hands may be problematic, but overall, I think this one is possible.

Carnival Head Auton from Terror of the Autons. I've been downloading free humanoid meshes where I can find them. The face is fairly uncomplicated, and looks not too dissimilar from my test printings. The hard part will be the giant novelty head, but it's big enough I'm hopeful I can pull off the level of detail required, given enough time.

Sensorite from The Sensorites.
If I can pull off Bellal and his Exxilon chums, this one is probably also possible.

Nimon from The Horns of Nimon.
The head would be the hardest part to sculpt. Otherwise, I could adapt a Voord body and slap on some hooves.

Raston Warrior Robot from The Five Doctors. Just requires I find a suitable "skinny athletic" humanoid mesh.

Mire Beast from The Chase.
I have a couple of octopus meshes I've downloaded. If I find one that works, I may adapt it, but it'll be a low priority.

The Slyther from The Dalek Invasion of Earth.
I have a couple of octopus meshes I've downloaded. If I find one that works, I may adapt it, but it'll be a low priority.

Aggedor from Monster of Peladon and Curse of Peladon. Another complicated sculpt, but a monster I've always loved. I'd invariably end up adapting the Yeti body to create this one.

Mandrel from Nightmare of Eden. See above, but even more so.

Macra from The Macra Terror.
Big stupid looking crab built onto the back of a Volkswagen. I have some crab meshes I've downloaded, this one may also be possible, but it'll be a low priority, especially as good source images are hard to come by (though I do now have some footage of the models under construction shot by Shawcraft).

Terileptil Android from The Visitation. On one hand, it's very angular, on the other, lots of surface detail and rhinestones. Plus it seems a shame to make one when there isn't a Terileptil to go with it, but if Character Options suddenly jump back in the game, this one might get bumped up the list.

L1 Robot from The Mysterious Planet. A complicated build for a fairly forgettable robot, but I may make it if I make Drathro. Can be remote controlled like the War Machine and IMC Mining Robot.

Cult of Demnos from Masque of Mandragora.
This one is also sort of a cheat. If I can come up with a convincing robe and the creepy removable face masks, the inside can be a golden light up sphere of helix energy!

Clockwork Soldier from The Mind Robber.
Entirely possible to construct. Just a super low priority compared to other figures. Would be nice if I could make their hats light up somehow.

Mara from Kinda and Snakedance. It's a giant pink snake. I'm sure I can find a snake model somewhere. If I ever find one that seems similar to the extra cheap inflatable version from Kinda, I may have to build it, just for a laugh.

Total Survival Suit (TSS) from Kinda. Probably possible to sculpt, but the holes where the figures are supposed to stick their arms through might be tricky. Also, less fun without an Adric figure to shove inside it.

Rani's TARDIS (all 3 versions) from Mark of the Rani, Time and the Rani, and Dimensions in Time.
All three are easy builds, but there's not much point without a Rani figure to go with it.

Meglos from Meglos. It's just a bloody cactus. If I really start getting desperate for figures, I may make one.

Krynoid (Episode 5 version) from Seeds of Doom. This is the "shambling mound" version. Mainly difficult because of all the tentacly protrusions that probably won't print well. Still, it's one of my favorite stories, so I might give it a shot.

Fungoid from The Chase.
Apparently also known as a Gubbage Cone, these were the singularly non-threatening looking umbrella-mushroom things from Mechanus. I may try making one eventually out of TPU or another flexible material. I'm thinking I might be able to fake the droopy looped tentacles on the inside by making a bunch of separate loops that just slot into holes.

Animus from The Web Planet. This is basically the top part of a Fungoid on top of a slightly smaller Fungoid, with extra tentacles on top and a light in the bottom. The stringy nature of the tentacles makes this one iffy, but if I attempt the one, I may attempt the other.

Seer from Underworld.
AKA the golden toaster-head robot guards in gimp masks. The removable masks are going to be the only real hard part, assuming I find a suitable premade body.

Plasmaton from Time-Flight.
The absolute worst monster ever featured on Doctor Who. I may make one at some point just as an April Fool's joke. (Hey, I already made the Taran Wood Beast)

Imperial Dalek Shuttlecraft from Remembrance of the Daleks.
The individual panels are comparatively easy, but the entire thing would need to be assembled modularly. That would take work, plus the entire thing would be about 18" long when assembled! I don't have that much room left on my toy shelf!

Dalek Battle Computer from Remembrance of the Daleks.
A comparatively easy sculpt, but you really need a creepy girl action figure to stick inside it.

These figures are super complicated, and may not be possible at all, but I still may give them a try some day:

Optera from The Web Planet.
It seems a shame to leave out the Menoptera, but I'd never be able to do the wings. Their caterpillar underground brethren may just be possible though, though their stubby tentacle dreds may take quite some playing around with to produce something that's printable.

Kandyman from The Happiness Patrol.
Again, lots of fiddly fine detail that may not work out, but I may attempt it just because it's another figure I've always wanted!

Kamelion from The King's Demons and Planet of Fire.
This is a big *if* of a figure, probably destined for the end of the run when I've only got complicated stuff left, or when I really feel like a challenge. His face may be smooth and simple enough that I can print it at maximum detail and have it come out okay. Moreso than a lot of figures on the list, I honestly don't know if this one is going to be possible.

Cryon from Attack of the Cybermen.
As above. The faces may be smooth and simple enough that I can print at maximum detail and have them come out okay. The dainty human hands and well manicured fingernails... I'm less optimistic about those.

Drathro from The Mysterious Planet. Angular, but lots of points of articulation and the hands look complicated. Also, some of those curved sections may be hard to pull off.

Fish People from The Underwater Menace.
Another one just barely on the edge of my "No Human Faces" rule. This one may just barely be possible since the faces are a single color, covered in scales, and the eyes aren't visible. On the other hand, nobody out there is desperately clamoring for a fish person action figure.

Foamasi from The Leisure Hive. Large scaly chameleons with lots of annoying wrinkles. There are parts of this figure I know I could pull off, but I'm not sure about the entire thing.

The Myrka from Warriors of the Deep.
I hold a special fondness for the derpiest of Doctor Who monsters, and they don't get much worse than the pantomime horse of the briny deep. There are so many reasons not to even attempt this build. It's massive, has a hard to reproduce texture and muscular system (I'd probably have to try to build it out of frogs and plucked chickens, if such models exist), plus it's got head fins, skin folds, and lots of stringy seaweed looking hangy-downy bits. Building it would be a nightmare, but I sure would love to have one.

Rills from Galaxy 4.
It would be nice for my Chumbleys to have some pals. This one would be entirely dependent on me getting proficient with Scupltris, but the fact that they don't move at all is a plus.

Vervoid from Terror of the Vervoids.
Another ambitious build that's just about possible if I use all my abilities, but may end up looking like crap and having to be abandoned.

Gods of Ragnarok from Greatest Show in the Galaxy. Seems simple enough, but there are a lot of folds in their robes. I have no doubt it would print okay, but creating the mesh is the hard part.

Tractators from Frontios. Like many others, I'm sure it would print fine, it's just an insanely difficult sculpt.

The Whomobile. Massive and lots of work (plus I'd have to find a reliable way of printing transparent for the cockpit) but I may eventually attempt it since I've always wanted one.
Last edited by 3DPrintingDoctorWho on Fri Jun 14, 2019 4:59 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Wed Jun 12, 2019 8:27 am

3D Printing FAQ:

I'll keep adding to this section as questions arise, but here are some of the more common ones:

1) How do I print your stuff?

If you just bought a printer and are entirely new to 3D printing, my best advice is to search youtube for how-to videos for your particular make and model, since they all have minor differences and tricks and tips for optimal printing. but in general you will need to:
  • Download the zip file containing the STL files you want to print off the Templates page of my website: https://www.3dprintingdoctorwho.com/templates.html.

  • Be sure to read any printing instructions that come with the templates. Next, open the STL or OBJ files in a slicer program to convert them into GCODE that your printer can use. I (and most other people) use CURA, which is completely free and probably came with your printer, though there are other programs out there that may have a few additional bells and whistles. The first time you use CURA, you'll need to set global settings that are particular to your printer (like the build area size, resolution, etc.) and then after that, you can adjust per-print settings, (like what fill percentage to use, where to print support structures around the object, and whether to use a Brim or Raft to make it stick to the build plate easier.) These are the typical CURA settings I use for most of my prints:


  • Once finished, you should be able to save the GCODE files onto a SD card that the printer reads (or send directly to the printer via USB if your printer supports that). I prefer using a SD card, so my PC doesn't have to be on while I'm printing.

  • After that, the process differs depending on what brand of printer you have, but on mine, I pop the SD card into the printer and power it on, hit "warm-up" and "PLA", wait a minute for it to reach starting temperature, pick off any stray bits of filament that have leaked out, hit "print", choose my GCODE model from the list, wait for it to almost reach target temperature (target for PLA is 220) then spray a couple of quick spurts of hairspray on the platform if it's going to be a large design, let it do the first initial outline for the raft (the solid bit that goes under your print job), quickly pick off any blobby or stringy bits that might interfere with printing, then the hard part.... waiting a couple of hours up to a solid week for it to finish the job.

2) How do I print your stuff if I don't own a 3D printer?

If you do not have a 3D printer of your own, you can use services like 3Dhubs.com to locate local printing services near you. Typically, you would download the files from the Templates page like above, and then upload or email them to the print service to get a price quote. If the design requires multiple copies of the same part (ex: two identical legs) you may need to manually create multiple numbered copies of the files to get accurate pricing when dealing with an automated system.


Rates on 3Dhubs.com will vary greatly depending on the size and complexity of the model, what materials you choose, and how many people in your area can perform the work, but are generally more affordable than going through ridiculously overpriced international services like Shapeways. (The one advantage of Shapeways is that they can do more exotic printing techniques like metal casting, which can lead to some very cool looking customs, though these options will cost your a packet.)

Be warned that a lot of 3D printing services cut corners and save themselves valuable printing time by setting their machines at a much higher layer height than you would normally use at home. This allows them to print significantly faster, but causes all slopes and curves to have a very noticeable ziggurat-like step pattern. You may have to get really specific to ensure you get a quality print, which is another reason to find a local printing service where you can talk to an actual human being. All my figures are designed to be printed at standard 0.1mm (100 micron) layer height unless otherwise noted.

If you are going to pay a 3D printing service to print a figure for you, it is *highly* recommended that you avoid Rough and Beta templates, and wait until I link to a fully tested Finished version. Otherwise you may find yourself out a lot of money for a figure that won't even slot together properly.

Finally, if you plan on printing more than a couple of these designs, especially the larger more elaborate models, you may want to evaluate the long-term cost savings of just buying a printer yourself.
You can get a decent sized filament printer for around $300. This is a costly up-front investment, but the filament itself costs next to nothing and goes a long way. You can usually print 3 to 5 regular sized figures off a single $20 roll of filament, and even my most massive and elaborate design, the TV Movie TARDIS Console Room playset, can be printed using just three rolls of filament (two grey, one brown) and barring misprints, you should still have some left over on each roll when you're done.

Mainly what you're paying for with commercial printing is their time, and something like the TV Movie TARDIS is going to cost you more than the price of a cheap printer, simply because it takes almost a month of continuous printing to finish all the parts.

3) I'm thinking of buying a 3D printer. Money is no object. What type of printer do you recommend for the best possible print?

If you have the money, and a cool dark place to store poisonous chemicals away from small children or animals who may be temped to ingest them, then you may want to skip filament entirely, and dive straight into SLA resin printing instead. Resin printers print in insanely high detail (even better than the officially licensed figures in some cases) without any of the warping, layer lines, or other problems associated with the filament printing process. Resin prints are also nearly indestructible, and if you're printing something transparent (like the time rotor or Rutan) clear as glass.

The downside is that these printers are still quite costly to own and operate, require the handling and disposal of toxic chemicals, and have comparatively tiny build areas. I badly want a Peopoli Moai printer, which has the biggest build area I've seen so far on a SLA printer at 5" x 5" x 7" but it costs a whopping $1300, and that doesn't even include a free bottle of resin. I've seen some quality prints come off the Anycubic Photon, which is a more reasonable $520, but comes with a significantly smaller 4.53" x 2.56" x 6.1" build area, which isn't big enough for most of my figures. Hopefully this will change in the coming years, as new and improved models hit the market, sending costs down and printing sizes up.

The resin itself is also pretty costly at about $60 to $100 per liter, though I don't know how many print jobs you can get out of each one. Some brands will let you add colors directly to the resin, which is pretty cool and may save you a bit of money if you know what you're doing and don't want to have to buy different colors individually. As I mentioned before, the resin is toxic if ingested and not good if you get it on your skin. Always wear gloves and a resperator when you handle it. You'll also need a small tub or form washer filled with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) to rinse any remaining liquid resin off your figure before you start handling it, at which point, both the remaining resin and resin-infused IPA will need to be disposed of in a responsible manner.

4) I'm thinking of buying a 3D printer. Money is totally an object. What type of printer do you recommend for the hobbyist on a budget?

Resin printers are great for durability and extreme detail, but they are ungodly expensive. FDM or filament printers (like I use) are a far more reasonably priced alternative, and you should definitely be able to obtain a reasonably high quality one for under £600.

There are lots of different models to choose from, but if you're putting together a shopping list, here are some of the essential things to look for are:
  • The printer should use standard 1.75mm filament, a 0.4mm or smaller nozzle, and have a maximum extruder temperature of 260°C (500°F) or higher. This will allow you to print PLA (the most common type of filament) but also TPU, PETG, and other more exotic filament types when the design requires it.
  • A large build area that's at least 7" x 7" x 7". The bigger the better here. The vast majority of my figures will fit on a 7" x 7" build area, but that may change if I get a bigger printer, and it's always safer to have more room to print extra brims and heat barriers.
  • The smallest layer height you can find, ideally 20 microns/0.02mm. Standard resolution layer height is 100 microns/0.1mm. Absolutely, do not buy anything with a layer height larger than that, but if you can, try to find something with a layer height of 50 microns, or ideally 20 microns/0.02 mm. This is the single most important factor in determining the overall quality of your prints, and the lower this number is, the smoother your diagonal/curved surfaces will look, and the easier they will be to paint.
  • A heated build plate that you can attach a borosilicate glass plate to (they cost about $20) to get nice smooth finish on your bottom surfaces (Important when you have to stick two pieces together, like the TARDIS console and don't want to spend hours sanding.)
  • Make sure the printer allows for offline printing, preferably via a SD card. Almost every printer I've seen does, but if the printer only has a USB port, make sure it doesn't need to be attached to a PC to print, because prints can take days in some instances to finish, and nobody wants their print ruined at the last minute by a ill-timed Windows update or forced reboot.
  • Compatibility with CURA. It may or may not say this on the box or product details, but it's nice if it mentions it. If it says "works with standard GCODE editors" that's basically the same thing. Most printers are CURA compatible, but if it lists some other slicer software instead, you might want to ask some follow-up questions. The last thing you want to do is get stuck with proprietary in-house software that suddenly stops working when you upgrade computers or a new operating system comes out.
  • If you can, try to find a printer with a nice sturdy exterior frame that you can build an enclosure around (it doesn't need to be fancy, literally building a box out of foam core works pretty well). This will help regulate temperature and prevent curling on large designs, and also keep out unwanted hair, dust, small hands or paws, any anything else you don't want to interfere with the print.
  • Some newer printers will automatically sense when you've run out of filament and pause the design. I don't have a printer that does this, and I don't know how well it works, but it sounds like an incredibly useful feature to have, as it's often hard to judge how much filament is left on a roll, and there's nothing more frustrating that getting 4 days into a 5 day print job, and realizing you're going to be short by a couple of meters.

5) What 3D Printer do you use for your own figures?


All my designs are printed using either a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, which is a standard 100 Micron (0.10 mm) resolution mid-ranged 3D printer that retails for about $399 or a Monoprice Maker Ultimate, which is a 20 micron (0.02 mm) HD printer that retails for $699 (you can get both cheaper if you buy open box).

Both are rebranded Wanhao printers, with very minor consmetic alterations - My HD printer is essentially the same as a Wanhao Duplicator 6, the and the SD printer is nearly identical to both the Wanhao Duplicator i3 and the Cocoon Touch printer for sale in Australia. If you see a printer that physically looks like either of mine, it's probably just a slightly rebranded version of the same thing.

Both models come mostly preassembled, and have a 7.9 x 7.9 x 7.1 build area.

6) What brands of filament do you use/recommend?

The answer to this question can change with the wind, but nowadays, I try to print with PLA+, which is slightly harder and stronger and tends to print fine detail significantly better, or Flex PLA, which as far as I can tell, is a mixture of standard PLA and the more flexible TPU filament. Flex PLA isn't that flexible, but useful for smallish thin parts (Like Wirrn legs) that you're worried about snapping off the first time you drop the model on the floor.

I typically buy my PLA+ from eSUN (Who list it as PLA Pro, and have a fairly decent color selection) and my Flex PLA from Paramount, who I'm fond of for filament in general since their stuff isn't too expensive, the company is operated out of the US (which may make their level of quality control a bit higher), and they tell you the exact Pantone color the filament is supposed to match (ex: British Racing Car Green 3435c) so you always know what you're getting and can be reasonably certain that if you reorder several months later, you'll be getting the same color as what you bought previously, even if it came from a different batch.

7) How do I edit your designs to make my own changes/customizations?

If you don't have your own CAD software, the easiest way is to go to https://www.tinkercad.com/users/j5XjLLt ... oyryanwood, or follow the Rough link off of the Templates page, and click on the big blue "Tinker This" button.

This will allow you to take a copy of my current "live" design and edit to your heart's content within TinkerCAD. Once you've made the changes, highlight the shape(s) you've changed and use the "export" button to save them as a STL or OBJ file.

Otherwise, you can also download the STL files, and edit them offline using any number of CAD programs. As long as you can find software that works with STL and/or OBJ files, you should be able to edit any of my designs.
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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:46 am

Finished Figure Gallery

I've been remiss in showing off some of my painted models, so here's some shots of what they look like finished (or nearly finished)








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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by CaptainJimiPie » Thu Jun 13, 2019 4:26 pm

If it's alright with you, I'm going to see if I can get this thread made sticky, it's a very useful one for everyone so I thought it should get a top spot :)

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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Thu Jun 13, 2019 11:03 pm

CaptainJimiPie wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 4:26 pm
If it's alright with you, I'm going to see if I can get this thread made sticky, it's a very useful one for everyone so I thought it should get a top spot :)
Yeah, fine with me. I'm also cool with other people posting to it if they've come up with a 3D printable model since it's become more of a collaborative effort than it was when I first started.

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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Fri Jun 14, 2019 6:45 am

Okay, that should be all the housekeeping done. The first five posts have been broken down into separate sections that should hopefully make it easier to find the important stuff once this thread gets back up to a 17 page monstrosity.

1) Project Introduction and Rules
2) List of Available Templates
3) To-Do List (and 'Nope' List)
4) 3D Printing FAQ
5) Finished Figure Gallery

Regular WIP updates should recommence shortly.
I'm in a bit of a holding pattern at the moment, as it's too hot (108° in Sacramento yesterday!) to go out and paint in the garage, and I'm waiting on one of my Facebook friends to finish printing the final resin pieces I need for the TV Movie TARDIS time rotor, but he's having complications with his machine and/or curing process.

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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by Rackers96 » Fri Jun 14, 2019 2:21 pm

I don't know if you allow this sort of thing, but I have designed an 8th doctor sonic screwdriver that is designed to collapse like the prop does, and if you put a spring in it, it would be spring loaded, I figure its something CO will never produce.

If you don't want it on your thread, please feel free to delete!

It is completely untested, and I dont even know if it will come out right it is the first thing I have ever 3D modelled.

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Former HUU Doctor Who Society President. All Round Who Boffin.
Co-founder Vault Cosplays - https://vaultcosplays.wixsite.com/home

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Re: 3D Printing Doctor Who - Print and paint your own 5.5" scale customs

Post by 3DPrintingDoctorWho » Sat Jun 15, 2019 5:53 am

Rackers96 wrote:
Fri Jun 14, 2019 2:21 pm
I don't know if you allow this sort of thing, but I have designed an 8th doctor sonic screwdriver that is designed to collapse like the prop does, and if you put a spring in it, it would be spring loaded, I figure its something CO will never produce.

If you don't want it on your thread, please feel free to delete!

It is completely untested, and I dont even know if it will come out right it is the first thing I have ever 3D modelled.
Send me the TinkerCAD link (as long as you've made it sharable) and what name you want it attributed to, and I'll put it up on the guest page.

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