Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Moderator: CaptainJimiPie

User avatar
SomeCleverReference
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2017 6:53 pm
Location: Earth, probably

Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby SomeCleverReference » Fri Sep 07, 2018 10:35 am

So I've encountered a lot of problems with everything I've been doing so far. But first, the good stuff:

I've finished up my TVM TARDIS and put the new sign on it:

Image
Image
Image
Image

The pictures make it look a lot worse than it is, somehow they managed to pick up the undercoat of matte blue and make it look like I did a bad job painting it. I only noticed that little bit of paint on the door sign after taking these pictures though, I've since cleaned it off.

I also printed the 1st Doctor's console top:

Image
Image
Image
Image

Unfortunately, as you can see in the last picture, when removing the supports, some of the tiny little levers broke off. I can probably glue them back on, or use milliput to sculpt some new ones though.

I also printed one of the walls:

Image

Unfortunately, it also had a lot of warping. This was an ongoing problem; I had to try it 3 times before even getting something usable. All the other times had some severe warping all over, this one just has it in one corner.

Image

But I test fit the roundels, and they fit perfectly.

Now, for the worst news of all (and why I haven't posted for a while): my printer broke. I don't know what happened, I left it running overnight while printing the second wall, and when I woke up, I was greeted to this overflowing from the nozzle and covering most of the case around the extruder:

Image

The rectangular indent is where the case was. I spent a few hours trying to fix this thing, but after getting it off and cleaning it, and doing everything I could find online, all of the prints were messed up. It just didn't print anything right anymore, half the time filament wouldn't even come out, half the time it would suddenly squirt out a huge pile of it where it wasn't supposed to. It also no longer printed anything round at all, it all came out super jagged unless I turned the print speed down to 20%. I tried a bunch of different methods of getting the filament to stick to see if that was the problem, but none of those helped either. So since it was still within the warranty period, I sent it back, because even if I could fix it, it would just cost too much money and be a giant headache. So for the past week or so I've been waiting on the new one I ordered on Amazon to arrive. It's still supposed to take a week at least though.

I got a 3D printable version of the TVM TARDIS exterior mostly finished at the moment and as screen accurate as it can be based on what little information there is about it, but I'm not going to put it up until I've had a chance to test it.

Image
Image
You can't really see it in these pictures, but I made sure to get the placement of the cracked looking window panels in the right spots too
Image
Image
Image


I've also mostly finished my 1981-89 console room, I just need to modify the doors and put the holes for the dowels in so it can be assembled. I also won't be putting this one up until I've had a chance to test it, even though it should work fine once it's finished. Though now apparently for some unknown reason Tinkercad is doing something monumentally stupid (which just started happening as I was writing this.) I went to go take screenshots of it for this post, and when I move the workplane back to the default, it immediately reverts to where it is when I load up the file for some reason. I can't do anything without it immediately undoing it. I think it might have something to do with an update to their site causing the bug. Anyway, here's how it looks now. The one wall not having holes is because it's ungrouped so that the file loads faster and doesn't lag my computer as much

Image
Image
Image


Once I get the rest of the 1st Doctor console room printed out to ensure it works, I'll put all the .stl files onto google drive, since Tinkercad's exporting system doesn't work a lot of the time for huge things. Then I'll move on to either the 8th Doctor's console or the 80s console room.

User avatar
bluehinter
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:45 am

Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby bluehinter » Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:55 am

I think you're slightly ahead of me on your 80's Console Room design, though we're both using the same source.
It looks like your printer has a bigger print area than mine, so you're able to print most of the walls in one go, which I'm totally jealous of. I'm running into issues where even cut down to 90% of true 5" scale (which still makes it 2 feet across, and 15" deep, far too massive to properly fit on a display shelf) the individual panels will still need to be printed in at least two halves to fit on my slightly less than 8" x 8" build plate.

Image

I wish I knew some super secret trick for counteracting warping, since it's the bane of my existence on all my large scale builds as well.
Just check out what happened to my poor War Machine:
Image

If you have a heated bed, you can mitigate the effects slightly be putting down some hairspray right before you print (a glue stick might also work, but is harder to get off, and can leave chunks), and making sure your printer has an enclosure, even if it's one you've made yourself out of foam core. If you do build an enclosure, you do have to be careful with the temperature, since too much will start to pre-melt the filaments inside the extruder after a while, causing guaranteed jams. On the plus side, with a home-made one, you can just poke vent holes in it until it holds in just the right amount of heat.

If you're not right up to the edge of your max print area, printing some disposable manual brims around the corners is also a good idea. That's what I had to do to prevent the TARDIS console from curling, and what I should have done on the War Machine, though there's a sweet spot for exactly how far away they should be to still be effective, that I'm still zeroing in on myself.
Image

I like the dowel idea for holding the pieces together, since you can make a tighter fit with wood than you can PLA, and it's far less complicated than the slot-in-from-the-top puzzle piece design I'm thinking of going with. Plus you don't have to worry about warping on the puzzle piece edge or the hole.

What are your plans for the doors? They've got that super awkward flimsy hinge in a terrible position, so, I'm not quite sure how to go about it.
They've also got the odd little extension on the side we can't normally see, so I think the zig-zag edges of the wall must be sloped so that when the door is open, the back-interior side of the door actually extends out further than the front. But of course, they were opened so infrequently on screen, it's impossible to get a good shot of how they operate. (and the camera men deliberately went out of their way to frame them so we couldn't see what was beyond.)

Image
Image
Image

The interior door isn't much better, and I'm going to have to create a lip at the bottom where there is none, and then just cut that wall a bit short on the base so I can create a long thin baseboard of sorts that I can glue in place. Either that or just make it the weird one-off version from the end of Ultimate Foe, where there's no door at all!
Image

User avatar
skifflebits
Posts: 1144
Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2016 12:50 pm

Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby skifflebits » Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:37 pm

The console room model looks grand, but you're right, 15" deep is pretty big. I feel like you need something that could fit on your average Billy bookcase. Have you considered a version you could open up "flatter?" so it wouldn't be as deep.

And IMHO, you don't need to print the walls to the very, very top, since most of that space never appeared on camera, anyway. The shot usually cut off just after the angled "moulding" above the roundel area. You could cut easily half that top buffer zone or more without losing anything.
Life's too short to engage with chuckleheads.

User avatar
SomeCleverReference
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2017 6:53 pm
Location: Earth, probably

Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby SomeCleverReference » Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:58 pm

bluehinter wrote:I think you're slightly ahead of me on your 80's Console Room design, though we're both using the same source.
It looks like your printer has a bigger print area than mine, so you're able to print most of the walls in one go, which I'm totally jealous of. I'm running into issues where even cut down to 90% of true 5" scale (which still makes it 2 feet across, and 15" deep, far too massive to properly fit on a display shelf) the individual panels will still need to be printed in at least two halves to fit on my slightly less than 8" x 8" build plate.

Image

I wish I knew some super secret trick for counteracting warping, since it's the bane of my existence on all my large scale builds as well.
Just check out what happened to my poor War Machine:
Image

If you have a heated bed, you can mitigate the effects slightly be putting down some hairspray right before you print (a glue stick might also work, but is harder to get off, and can leave chunks), and making sure your printer has an enclosure, even if it's one you've made yourself out of foam core. If you do build an enclosure, you do have to be careful with the temperature, since too much will start to pre-melt the filaments inside the extruder after a while, causing guaranteed jams. On the plus side, with a home-made one, you can just poke vent holes in it until it holds in just the right amount of heat.

If you're not right up to the edge of your max print area, printing some disposable manual brims around the corners is also a good idea. That's what I had to do to prevent the TARDIS console from curling, and what I should have done on the War Machine, though there's a sweet spot for exactly how far away they should be to still be effective, that I'm still zeroing in on myself.
Image

I like the dowel idea for holding the pieces together, since you can make a tighter fit with wood than you can PLA, and it's far less complicated than the slot-in-from-the-top puzzle piece design I'm thinking of going with. Plus you don't have to worry about warping on the puzzle piece edge or the hole.

What are your plans for the doors? They've got that super awkward flimsy hinge in a terrible position, so, I'm not quite sure how to go about it.
They've also got the odd little extension on the side we can't normally see, so I think the zig-zag edges of the wall must be sloped so that when the door is open, the back-interior side of the door actually extends out further than the front. But of course, they were opened so infrequently on screen, it's impossible to get a good shot of how they operate. (and the camera men deliberately went out of their way to frame them so we couldn't see what was beyond.)

Image
Image
Image

The interior door isn't much better, and I'm going to have to create a lip at the bottom where there is none, and then just cut that wall a bit short on the base so I can create a long thin baseboard of sorts that I can glue in place. Either that or just make it the weird one-off version from the end of Ultimate Foe, where there's no door at all!
Image




Actually, I'm not using any source, I've made this all from scratch. The only thing I've taken from somewhere else are the clawed feet for my S14 console.

As for what I'm going to do for the doors, I'm going to use 8x10mm hinges I found on amazon. That means the doors needed a tiny adjustment so they're not 100% accurate, but it's still good enough. However I didn't expect them to be as thick as they are when closed (probably 1mm thick) and it's going to leave a very noticeable gap now, plus I'll have to probably sand down the doors I already printed so they don't bump into each other. I have the hinges, door, and wall piece ready, I just need to get some glue for it because the only glue I have dries almost instantly and I worry it will get in the hinge and glue it shut.

I found this picture/diagram that DoctorWho8 made on TARDISbuilders which shows how the doors are constructed:

Image

The Outcast
Posts: 199
Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2017 1:14 pm

Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby The Outcast » Tue Sep 11, 2018 3:04 pm

bluehinter wrote:I think you're slightly ahead of me on your 80's Console Room design, though we're both using the same source.
It looks like your printer has a bigger print area than mine, so you're able to print most of the walls in one go, which I'm totally jealous of. I'm running into issues where even cut down to 90% of true 5" scale (which still makes it 2 feet across, and 15" deep, far too massive to properly fit on a display shelf) the individual panels will still need to be printed in at least two halves to fit on my slightly less than 8" x 8" build plate.


Maybe you could make the panels of roundels separate pieces from the columns and sloped upper bit, then have the lower bit of each column (the bit with the pattern on) printed separate from that and the top bits with the sections of the upper columns as separate parts from that.

So kinda like (excuse very rough diagram)

|ooo|
|ooo|
|ooo|
^ Panel

|-|
|-|
|-|
^Column

| |___| |
^Top bit

User avatar
bluehinter
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:45 am

Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby bluehinter » Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:00 am

How goes the 80's console room project? I've back-burnered mine since I've got a bunch of other stuff to work on (well, and I figured there was no sense duplicating your efforts) but I'd love to see if you've made any further progress.

I've got a nearly print-ready 8th Doctor console room set complete with arches and hanging monitor, that I'm itching to start test printing in January as soon as my printers are no longer monopolized with Christmas gifts.


Return to “Customs”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests