Some Clever Reference's 3D Printable TARDISes (and Occasional Customs)

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SomeCleverReference
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby SomeCleverReference » Fri Sep 07, 2018 10:35 am

So I've encountered a lot of problems with everything I've been doing so far. But first, the good stuff:

I've finished up my TVM TARDIS and put the new sign on it:

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The pictures make it look a lot worse than it is, somehow they managed to pick up the undercoat of matte blue and make it look like I did a bad job painting it. I only noticed that little bit of paint on the door sign after taking these pictures though, I've since cleaned it off.

I also printed the 1st Doctor's console top:

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Unfortunately, as you can see in the last picture, when removing the supports, some of the tiny little levers broke off. I can probably glue them back on, or use milliput to sculpt some new ones though.

I also printed one of the walls:

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Unfortunately, it also had a lot of warping. This was an ongoing problem; I had to try it 3 times before even getting something usable. All the other times had some severe warping all over, this one just has it in one corner.

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But I test fit the roundels, and they fit perfectly.

Now, for the worst news of all (and why I haven't posted for a while): my printer broke. I don't know what happened, I left it running overnight while printing the second wall, and when I woke up, I was greeted to this overflowing from the nozzle and covering most of the case around the extruder:

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The rectangular indent is where the case was. I spent a few hours trying to fix this thing, but after getting it off and cleaning it, and doing everything I could find online, all of the prints were messed up. It just didn't print anything right anymore, half the time filament wouldn't even come out, half the time it would suddenly squirt out a huge pile of it where it wasn't supposed to. It also no longer printed anything round at all, it all came out super jagged unless I turned the print speed down to 20%. I tried a bunch of different methods of getting the filament to stick to see if that was the problem, but none of those helped either. So since it was still within the warranty period, I sent it back, because even if I could fix it, it would just cost too much money and be a giant headache. So for the past week or so I've been waiting on the new one I ordered on Amazon to arrive. It's still supposed to take a week at least though.

I got a 3D printable version of the TVM TARDIS exterior mostly finished at the moment and as screen accurate as it can be based on what little information there is about it, but I'm not going to put it up until I've had a chance to test it.

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You can't really see it in these pictures, but I made sure to get the placement of the cracked looking window panels in the right spots too
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I've also mostly finished my 1981-89 console room, I just need to modify the doors and put the holes for the dowels in so it can be assembled. I also won't be putting this one up until I've had a chance to test it, even though it should work fine once it's finished. Though now apparently for some unknown reason Tinkercad is doing something monumentally stupid (which just started happening as I was writing this.) I went to go take screenshots of it for this post, and when I move the workplane back to the default, it immediately reverts to where it is when I load up the file for some reason. I can't do anything without it immediately undoing it. I think it might have something to do with an update to their site causing the bug. Anyway, here's how it looks now. The one wall not having holes is because it's ungrouped so that the file loads faster and doesn't lag my computer as much

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Once I get the rest of the 1st Doctor console room printed out to ensure it works, I'll put all the .stl files onto google drive, since Tinkercad's exporting system doesn't work a lot of the time for huge things. Then I'll move on to either the 8th Doctor's console or the 80s console room.

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bluehinter
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby bluehinter » Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:55 am

I think you're slightly ahead of me on your 80's Console Room design, though we're both using the same source.
It looks like your printer has a bigger print area than mine, so you're able to print most of the walls in one go, which I'm totally jealous of. I'm running into issues where even cut down to 90% of true 5" scale (which still makes it 2 feet across, and 15" deep, far too massive to properly fit on a display shelf) the individual panels will still need to be printed in at least two halves to fit on my slightly less than 8" x 8" build plate.

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I wish I knew some super secret trick for counteracting warping, since it's the bane of my existence on all my large scale builds as well.
Just check out what happened to my poor War Machine:
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If you have a heated bed, you can mitigate the effects slightly be putting down some hairspray right before you print (a glue stick might also work, but is harder to get off, and can leave chunks), and making sure your printer has an enclosure, even if it's one you've made yourself out of foam core. If you do build an enclosure, you do have to be careful with the temperature, since too much will start to pre-melt the filaments inside the extruder after a while, causing guaranteed jams. On the plus side, with a home-made one, you can just poke vent holes in it until it holds in just the right amount of heat.

If you're not right up to the edge of your max print area, printing some disposable manual brims around the corners is also a good idea. That's what I had to do to prevent the TARDIS console from curling, and what I should have done on the War Machine, though there's a sweet spot for exactly how far away they should be to still be effective, that I'm still zeroing in on myself.
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I like the dowel idea for holding the pieces together, since you can make a tighter fit with wood than you can PLA, and it's far less complicated than the slot-in-from-the-top puzzle piece design I'm thinking of going with. Plus you don't have to worry about warping on the puzzle piece edge or the hole.

What are your plans for the doors? They've got that super awkward flimsy hinge in a terrible position, so, I'm not quite sure how to go about it.
They've also got the odd little extension on the side we can't normally see, so I think the zig-zag edges of the wall must be sloped so that when the door is open, the back-interior side of the door actually extends out further than the front. But of course, they were opened so infrequently on screen, it's impossible to get a good shot of how they operate. (and the camera men deliberately went out of their way to frame them so we couldn't see what was beyond.)

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The interior door isn't much better, and I'm going to have to create a lip at the bottom where there is none, and then just cut that wall a bit short on the base so I can create a long thin baseboard of sorts that I can glue in place. Either that or just make it the weird one-off version from the end of Ultimate Foe, where there's no door at all!
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skifflebits
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby skifflebits » Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:37 pm

The console room model looks grand, but you're right, 15" deep is pretty big. I feel like you need something that could fit on your average Billy bookcase. Have you considered a version you could open up "flatter?" so it wouldn't be as deep.

And IMHO, you don't need to print the walls to the very, very top, since most of that space never appeared on camera, anyway. The shot usually cut off just after the angled "moulding" above the roundel area. You could cut easily half that top buffer zone or more without losing anything.
Life's too short to engage with chuckleheads.

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SomeCleverReference
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby SomeCleverReference » Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:58 pm

bluehinter wrote:I think you're slightly ahead of me on your 80's Console Room design, though we're both using the same source.
It looks like your printer has a bigger print area than mine, so you're able to print most of the walls in one go, which I'm totally jealous of. I'm running into issues where even cut down to 90% of true 5" scale (which still makes it 2 feet across, and 15" deep, far too massive to properly fit on a display shelf) the individual panels will still need to be printed in at least two halves to fit on my slightly less than 8" x 8" build plate.

Image

I wish I knew some super secret trick for counteracting warping, since it's the bane of my existence on all my large scale builds as well.
Just check out what happened to my poor War Machine:
Image

If you have a heated bed, you can mitigate the effects slightly be putting down some hairspray right before you print (a glue stick might also work, but is harder to get off, and can leave chunks), and making sure your printer has an enclosure, even if it's one you've made yourself out of foam core. If you do build an enclosure, you do have to be careful with the temperature, since too much will start to pre-melt the filaments inside the extruder after a while, causing guaranteed jams. On the plus side, with a home-made one, you can just poke vent holes in it until it holds in just the right amount of heat.

If you're not right up to the edge of your max print area, printing some disposable manual brims around the corners is also a good idea. That's what I had to do to prevent the TARDIS console from curling, and what I should have done on the War Machine, though there's a sweet spot for exactly how far away they should be to still be effective, that I'm still zeroing in on myself.
Image

I like the dowel idea for holding the pieces together, since you can make a tighter fit with wood than you can PLA, and it's far less complicated than the slot-in-from-the-top puzzle piece design I'm thinking of going with. Plus you don't have to worry about warping on the puzzle piece edge or the hole.

What are your plans for the doors? They've got that super awkward flimsy hinge in a terrible position, so, I'm not quite sure how to go about it.
They've also got the odd little extension on the side we can't normally see, so I think the zig-zag edges of the wall must be sloped so that when the door is open, the back-interior side of the door actually extends out further than the front. But of course, they were opened so infrequently on screen, it's impossible to get a good shot of how they operate. (and the camera men deliberately went out of their way to frame them so we couldn't see what was beyond.)

Image
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The interior door isn't much better, and I'm going to have to create a lip at the bottom where there is none, and then just cut that wall a bit short on the base so I can create a long thin baseboard of sorts that I can glue in place. Either that or just make it the weird one-off version from the end of Ultimate Foe, where there's no door at all!
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Actually, I'm not using any source, I've made this all from scratch. The only thing I've taken from somewhere else are the clawed feet for my S14 console.

As for what I'm going to do for the doors, I'm going to use 8x10mm hinges I found on amazon. That means the doors needed a tiny adjustment so they're not 100% accurate, but it's still good enough. However I didn't expect them to be as thick as they are when closed (probably 1mm thick) and it's going to leave a very noticeable gap now, plus I'll have to probably sand down the doors I already printed so they don't bump into each other. I have the hinges, door, and wall piece ready, I just need to get some glue for it because the only glue I have dries almost instantly and I worry it will get in the hinge and glue it shut.

I found this picture/diagram that DoctorWho8 made on TARDISbuilders which shows how the doors are constructed:

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The Outcast
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby The Outcast » Tue Sep 11, 2018 3:04 pm

bluehinter wrote:I think you're slightly ahead of me on your 80's Console Room design, though we're both using the same source.
It looks like your printer has a bigger print area than mine, so you're able to print most of the walls in one go, which I'm totally jealous of. I'm running into issues where even cut down to 90% of true 5" scale (which still makes it 2 feet across, and 15" deep, far too massive to properly fit on a display shelf) the individual panels will still need to be printed in at least two halves to fit on my slightly less than 8" x 8" build plate.


Maybe you could make the panels of roundels separate pieces from the columns and sloped upper bit, then have the lower bit of each column (the bit with the pattern on) printed separate from that and the top bits with the sections of the upper columns as separate parts from that.

So kinda like (excuse very rough diagram)

|ooo|
|ooo|
|ooo|
^ Panel

|-|
|-|
|-|
^Column

| |___| |
^Top bit

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bluehinter
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby bluehinter » Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:00 am

How goes the 80's console room project? I've back-burnered mine since I've got a bunch of other stuff to work on (well, and I figured there was no sense duplicating your efforts) but I'd love to see if you've made any further progress.

I've got a nearly print-ready 8th Doctor console room set complete with arches and hanging monitor, that I'm itching to start test printing in January as soon as my printers are no longer monopolized with Christmas gifts.

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SomeCleverReference
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby SomeCleverReference » Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:16 pm

bluehinter wrote:How goes the 80's console room project? I've back-burnered mine since I've got a bunch of other stuff to work on (well, and I figured there was no sense duplicating your efforts) but I'd love to see if you've made any further progress.

I've got a nearly print-ready 8th Doctor console room set complete with arches and hanging monitor, that I'm itching to start test printing in January as soon as my printers are no longer monopolized with Christmas gifts.



Well funny you mentioned that, I was just about to make a post about it.

So first off, I finally got a 3D printer from a company who isn't absolutely horrible, and it works so much better then the last brand (CReality, which I cannot stress enough to anyone reading this: don't buy this brand.) I had 3 models from them (2 were replacements to replace their horrible product), the first one worked for about 3 weeks then nothing stuck to the printbed, no matter what I did, and I tried everything. They sent a replacement out, and it encountered the exact same issue after just a week. I bought their more expensive, newest version because I heard it allegedly fixed all the problems the old ones had, which it might have, had it had actually turned on. After spending 600 Euros on a printer, it literally didn't even get to the point of a test print before breaking. One of the cables must have been faulty or something, because when it hit the Z axis limit switch it just kept going down and had to be shut off. Then I bought a printer from a different brand, and (ignoring the fact it took 2 weeks to get shipped out) it works perfectly, and everything sticks to the bed perfectly so far, unlike the others where I had to use glue stick and stuff from the start.

As for the console room, it's 99% finished, I just have to work out how to make the scanner screen rise and stay up. However, the problem now is that Tinkercad updated their site or something and it runs atrociously for me. It lags so much it's entirely unusable, even in a brand new empty file. It's literally impossible for me to use at this point. I tweeted them about the issue, but they never said anything back either, not even an automated response. All my half-finished files are now unusable, at least until they make some new update that fixes this. I might be the only one with this problem, but nothing changed for me, so it must have something to do with their site, since I hadn't logged in for a week, and then when I did it looked entirely different.

The only real changes I need to make are to the interior door (I made the season 22-26 version, with the roundels as a solid part of the door and the handle on the right first, I don't have the other one with roundels as a separate part that can be printed clear, and the door handle on the left side, and now that Tinkercad barely runs I can't make it) and to split it into smaller printable chunks. See, my printer is 300x300x400, which I bought specifically just so I could make these all as one piece and print huge parts easier, but now that Tinkercad is ruined, I can't split it into parts that other people can use. So at the moment, while it's all finished, it's not usable for most people, until I can get Tinkercad to not be terrible, or find another alternative that doesn't involve hundreds of hours of learning how to use the program.

I'm going to put it up once I finish test prints for it, but that'll be a week or so because I was planning on finishing my 1st/2nd Doctor console room, which means I have 66 more full roundels to print, and a batch of 5 takes 12 hours, plus I was going to print some of the other parts for it and hope that maybe Tinkercad updates in the meantime and goes back to working.

I have printed a few roundels from the 80s TARDIS so far just to test it would actually come out looking good, and they look great so far. Currently I'm printing the third wall of the 60s TARDIS, which is the biggest remaining part, and it's at 91% after 51 hours of print time. So far so good though, absolutely no warping that I found, and I think even if it does mess up now, this will be close enough to the finished version that it'll be usable and I won't have to reprint it.

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SomeCleverReference
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby SomeCleverReference » Wed Jan 02, 2019 9:18 am

So, Tinkercad must have updated again or something, because now it's back to running pretty much like it did before. I managed to get everything fully designed, but when I set up all the roundels for this screenshot to make it look like it would when it's fully assembled, Tinkercad couldn't handle it and keep crashing, and this was the best shot I could get:

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Now all that I have to do is split it into smaller pieces to print on a normal 200x200 buildplate, and then I'll upload it.

I also made a sort of box-like design for behind the roundel walls, to hold a sting of LEDs so that the roundels can be backlit:

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Not sure how well it'll work though, guess I'll have to wait and see. If it doesn't work I have no idea what I'll do, this is the only way I can think of backlighting them all in an easy way, without having the mess with the overall design.

I have 2 versions of the interior door and door wall too, one for the translucent yellow roundel version of the door with the hinges on the right side, one for the later version of the door with the roundels painted the same white as the rest of the room that had hinges on the left.

I also have the TVM and Brachaki TARDIS exteriors prepared for printing,but I'm not going to start on those until I've finished the 80's console room. Currently I have the 2 roundel walls printed out, and they look absolutely perfect. I still haven't figured out a way to make the scanner screen rise easily though. In theory if I made the hole for the scanner screen just a little too small, it'd be able to slide in and out easily, but not fall down. But then you'd always have to move it by hand, which kind of makes it a boring feature.

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bluehinter
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Re: Some Clever Reference's Customs (Current Project: 3D Printable Console Rooms)

Postby bluehinter » Thu Jan 03, 2019 2:17 am

I'm also running into similar issues with TInkerCAD. I need to resize the top of the 8th Doctor's console and it's stuck permanently in the red "cannot load nodes" state. Unfortunately, my saved version appears to be corrupt. :(

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SomeCleverReference
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Re: Some Clever Reference's 3D Printable TARDISes (and Occasional Customs)

Postby SomeCleverReference » Sun Jan 13, 2019 12:12 pm

Well, I know I said I wouldn't be printing any TARDIS exteriors yet, but since I ran into problems with what I thought would be the final version of the 80s console room, I decided to print the TVM TARDIS out while I tried to fix it. Here it is so far, though I still haven't attached the rest of it to the base and the doors are loose because of it. The final roof piece is printing now, and I can't print the windows or lamp until I get more clear filament, which will hopefully be tomorrow:

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I've also been painting my 60s console recently, but it still needs a lot of work (and about time too, I've had it sitting around for months):
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My main problem for my 80s console room is that I can't get the tiny little hinges to get glued to the door and the wall. If I attach glue to the door first, then it weighs it down and I can't hold it still enough in the time it takes for the glue to dry. If I glue it to the wall first, then I can't manage to get a good enough grip on the door, and also hold the hinge in the little recess it's supposed to go in. I might try adding a recess to the wall too, and then hope that I can get that to mostly hold the hinge in place as I hold it down with something else, and then it can't wiggle around as much. I've hesitant to try this though because I don't really want to spend hours printing a wall just for it not to work. I think I'll print a block that's basically just the section with a recess for the hinge, and then try gluing one of the doors that I already needed to reprint to that, then the only thing I'll have wasted is a hinge, if everything goes well.

I've also modeled many many many versions of the Brachaki altered TARDIS (one for each variation, 7 total) which was a pain to make at times, due to the fact that the whole thing is very uneven after the 3rd version.

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I won't personally be printing every version myself, but I will be making them as compatible with each other as possible, so I'll test each combination of different parts myself. (For example, I won't be printing the variation where the Pull to Open panel is mounted on the wrong side, but I'll be printing the version afterwards, where the only changes were that it had handles added and the sign moved to the correct door. Since the functional parts are identical, the only thing that's changed are the aesthetic parts on the doors, so if my version works fine, the others with identical functional parts will too.)

I also modeled the Newberry TARDIS, meaning I now have an almost complete set of classic TARDISes ready for test printing (I just need to do the 2 minor variations to the TJY TARDIS and I'll have done the complete set)

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I'll post another update once I finish the lamp and windows of the TVM TARDIS


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